Rescue Response Gear

NOTE: The following is considered a reminder or guide and not a "how to manual". Every industry and person takes their own personal preferences and bias into using knot craft for the need at hand. Rescue Response Gear LLC, takes no responsibility for what is done with this information and highly encourages further study of knots and the practicing of this art. At the end of our segment, books on this subject will be given… as recommended reading.

The following survey will include only the basic family of "knots" and their usages.

"Knots" A general term for all knots, bends and hitches.

Knot When a strand of material is tied to itself.

Bend Two or more strands of material are tied to each other.

Hitch When a strand of material is tied around an object and when that object is removed, the hitch would undo itself.

Running End The end of the rope that is being worked with.

Standing End Non active end of the rope (opposite of end of the running end).

Bight 180-degree turn in the strand of the rope.

Loop 360-degree turn in the strand of the rope.

Knot Characteristics
Evaluate your knot carefully to determine which one is best for the job

Category of Knots
The first two categories are truly knots that should not move or slide and lend themselves to main riggings. The bends have mostly sling applications, while friction, belay ties, and climbing hitches all have interchangeable applications.

Basic Roped Rescue Knots (Figure 8, Bowline, Tensionless Tie Off, Butterfly, Double Fisherman’s, Prusik Hitch, Mariners Hitch, Muenter, Water Knot (webbing only).

Figure 8 (Stopper) The Figure 8 could be considered the "go to" knot of most professions. It forms the backbone of the all the "family of 8 knots"; bend, Double and In-Line, as well as a stopper. It holds its strength better than most, but can be difficult to untie after being loaded and could be considered bulky by some standards and preferences.
Figure 8 on a Bight This is a very versatile knot most commonly used for attaching ropes to anchor points. Most things that can be done with fancier knots (e.g. double loop knots for a Y-belay) can also be done with a suitable combination of figure of eights. If you only learn one knot, make it this one.
Bowline The Bowline is a multi-purpose knot that is as easily untied as tied. If tied incorrectly, it could fall apart as some point. It has a high efficiency rating, but has been known to work loose during repeated loadings, so it is a good idea to used a half-hitch or back up knot. One idea might be the Yosemite backup.


Tensionless Hitch Given the right anchor point, the Tensionless Hitch allows the end of the rope to be tied off without sacrificing strength, unlike a knot. The knot’s ability to hold the load depends on the number of wraps, the surface friction and the diameter of the tree or post (must be at least 8 times the diameter of the rope. Any edges or corners (bends) will reduce the strength in proportion to the sharpness of the bend. The Tensionless Hitch loads the anchor different than that of a "knotted" anchor, in that is places a rotational force on the anchor. Because of this, it is possible to unscrew a pipe (should it be used as the anchor). The use of an Overhand Knot on the standing end of the rope (prior to tying the finish 8 at the end; see CMC RRM III), decreases the rotational load that a Tensionless Hitch would place on the anchor.
Mariners Knot A large runner, webbing (1" flat or tube) or rope works best. This knot system, when done properly, will release a load "in control" and not allow and shock to the system.
Prusik Knot While this is technically a hitch, most rescuers call it a Prusik Knot or just Prusik. The Prusik Hitch is used to tie one rope onto another in such a manner that the hitch holds when loaded, but will slide easily when loose. As demonstrated in the diagram, we will use a minimum of three wraps at all times when we use the Prusik. The ideal situation when using the Prusik is a combination of rope type, rope size differential and number of wraps so that the Prusik Hitch will hold the load you intend to put on it. "Failure" will be the hitch slipping rather than the Prusik rope breaking or cutting the main rope. Other conditions that can affect the reliability of the Prusik Hitch are water, ice, or snow.
Double Fisherman’s Knot The Double Fisherman's Knot is used to tie two pieces of similar or dissimilar materials; most commonly used to tie Prusik Loops. It is considered a very secure knot, minimum size and self-locking.
Butterfly Knot Used to tie a loop in the middle of a rope in situations where the ends of the rope are being used in some fashion (as in carrying a load).
Water Knot The Water knot is used to tie lengths of webbing together or a single length into a loop. Pull hard to set the knot leaving at least 4 - 6 inches of tail. Always add Safety Knots before using.
Munter Hitch The handy Munter hitch serves both as a belay and rappel knot for single person belays and systems only. Works whether the rope is being paid out or in and can also be used as part of a load release hitch.
Where knots are located in a rescue system. This is an illustration of a 3:1 raising system. All knots in this diagram are to be backed up with a safety knot; an overhand would do fine. The Double Fisherman’s can be substituted with a Figure 8 Bend as well.