#2 of 7MRA - Solo Rescue / Gecko Victim / Descend Together

• Solo rescuer
• Clinging “gecko” victim/No harness
• Rescuer/victim descend together

Discussion:
#2 of 7MRA is the first of the truly “solo” rescues requiring really only one competent rope rescue practitioner. This means exactly like it sounds; one rescuer over the edge doing it all on their own. At first glance, the casual observer will realize the inherent flaw or risk in this situation: One person doing it all can make a mistake. Generally the more eyes on something, the safer it becomes. Hence, we would only send well trained personnel on such an endeavor; one that will not make mistakes resulting in less than desirable outcome. This, and indeed all the truly “solo” rescues techniques (#’s 2, 3 and 4 of a total of 7MRA), need to be rehearsed to perfection by anyone attempting them in an actual rescue.

Assumptions:

• The victim is below clinging to the cliff face (or structure)
• The victim has NO harness so this is most likely someone who has climbed up or down to their present location and has become stranded
• The rescue comes from above

Equipment considerations:

• Friction appliance: Special attention should be given the friction appliance for the 7MRA and, in particular, the “solo” MRA. The illustration shows a small brake rack with hyper bars but any friction appliance can be used that is rated for 200kg, (including auto stop devices like the Petzl STOP or I’D) but care should be taken in insuring that the added friction is applied to the device before picking up the victim (thereby doubling the amount of mass on the appliance). With the double hyper bar brake rack, the added friction is automatically introduced after the rescuer unties from the pick off (more in Box #3)
• Extension unit: This may be a loop of webbing, sewn runner or a cord, such as a prusik or chest Purcell (basket hitched or girth hitched depending on length). Many times, the question of why this extension is introduced between the bottom of the traveling brake and the rescuers harness—in essence raising the traveling brake up near the top of the rescuers head. By extending the friction appliance to the top of the rescuers head, the rescuer is thus lower and about equal with the victim (see Box #3). The length of the extension unit and the pick off unit should be about the same, thus allowing the rescuer to be level with the victim and in a position to quickly affix the pick off harness without hesitation. In this way, the rescuer can swing in directly behind the victim and basically encompass them with their body, talking in their ear about what is taking place, and affording a favorable position in which to reach around the victim and get the pick off harness on.
• Pick off unit: The pick off unit in this case does not need to be as ‘serious’ a mechanical advantage as in many of the other MRA (where the victims total mass is lifted by the rescuer over the edge). In this case, only a means of quickly taking up all slack between the traveling brake and the newly applied pick off harness now on the victim is required. A simple pick off strap with no mechanical advantage at all like, say, a 1:1 would do the trick here. In comparison, if no pick off unit is used, the victim feels as though they are not supported by the harness (as it lacks any upward pressure on their body) and consequentially, they may be reluctant to let go of what they are clinging to. The pick off unit provides this otherwise missing pressure at the pick off harness. This pressure may be seen as a signal to the victim, that, yes, indeed, the rescuer does have them.
• Pick off harness: The harness is important. It should be easy to put on the victim from the rear if this is the direction from which the hanging rescuer will approach. Again, it should already be attached to the pick off unit hanging from the traveling brake, lessening the time it will take to ready this equipment. If a belay is used, the long tail should be attached to the pick off harness (see illustration)

Here is a step by step rundown on this minimalist rescue. Follow along by referring to the 5 box illustration.

Box #1—

• Preparation: The rescuer/belayer arrive at a position directly above the clinging “gecko-style” victim (with no harness). After anchors are established for the main and belay, single fixed rope is thrown down making sure that 1) rope is out of reach of victim, and 2) that this line reaches the ground. Any method of establishing this line is acceptable (bag toss, line coil heave, etc.) Rescuer may also rappel into position using a rope bag attached to the harness instead of throwing to the ground as shown, however, this technique does not allow the rescuer to visibly see the end of the line on the ground (which will be essential if the rescuer is to get down with the victim).
• Separation: Leaving a definite space between the victims position and the established rescue line insures that a possibly panicked victim will not be tempted to reach/jump for this line. Of course, the action of throwing the line down should only be done after clear communication between the rescuer and the victim has taken place (if possible). Rescuer readies themselves:
• Equipment Taken: 1) A suitable traveling brake (Rescue Load-200kg), 2) Extension unit (between bottom of traveling brake and rescuers harness), 3) Pick off unit (personal mechanical advantage) and 4) a pick off hasty-type harness. All of this should be readied by the rescuer before going over the edge. This will also allow them to go about the business of performing the rescue without delay once in position. In the illustration, you can see the entire ensemble readied and attached to the friction appliance.

Box #2—

• Rescuer on Belay: Rescuer is put on belay after buddy check from belayer (B) if applicable. If no belay, proceed to next step.
• Rescuer Descends: over edge protection with entire rescue ensemble attached to bottom of traveling brake ready for pick off of victim. Again, rescuer should communicate with victim if possible and stay clear distance away with all ropes.

Box #3—

• Rescuer roughly level with victim: Rescuer descends to position which is even (level) with victim just out of reach. Readies all capture equipment before next step. If position looks correct, rescuer can tie off traveling brake in anticipation of capturing victim in next step.
• Rescuer swings over to victim: Care must be taken as to not dislodge rocks above by the pendulum action of this swing. This is one of two of the 7MRA which involved this pendulum swing only for the fact that all other victims in the other five are hanging from a harness and the precautionary spacing between the victim and rescuer is not needed.
• Pick off harness installed: When the rescuer is behind the victim, the pick off harness hanging from the pick off unit is installed on the victim carefully. Care must be taken as to not dislodge the victim if they are in a delicate situation.
• Pick off unit takes up slack: Immediately after the harness is on, the pick off unit is sucked up to instantly apply pressure to the victim via the pick off harness. A pick off unit or pick off strap that can be pulled downward instead of up is desirable (like a1:1 or 4:1cd AZTEK). Once this is on, the victim is secure. Tie off pick off unit if applicable.

Box #4—

• Rescuer/victim swing back to fall line: Rescuer now has victim with two ropes (main and belay) and pulls victim off face. Traveling brake now has two person load (200kg) in tied off position.

• Rescuer/victim descend: Rescuer now unties friction appliance and slowly descends to ground. Victim is hanging basically level with rescuer. Rescuer positions feet against wall and places victim either on back (Tragsitz style) or hangs victim between legs facing out away from wall.